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The eight people at every Nepali picnic

They are always the same eight, regardless of who was invited. The one with the speaker. Arrived first. Has a plan for the day and a playlist. Will be ignored on both counts. The cook. Does ninety per cent of the work, refuses all help, complains about the lack of help. The assistant to the […]

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Everything that happens when the internet goes down for ten minutes

Everyone notices within four seconds. Nobody says anything for thirty. The first person says it out loud. The room is grateful. Four people simultaneously turn WiFi off and on, as a ritual rather than a fix. Somebody switches to mobile data and announces it, like a rescue. The router is looked at. It is a […]

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How to give directions in Kathmandu, in eight steps

Establish a landmark. It must be a building, never a road. The building should ideally no longer be there. Everyone will still know it. Give a distance in minutes, walking, at a pace nobody has ever walked. Say “seedhai” — straight ahead — while making a turning motion with your hand. Trust the hand. Mention […]

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The six stages of a Nepali family video call

The connection. Video on both ends. Neither camera is pointing at a face. The volume negotiation. “Can you hear me?” is said four times, twice by each side, always simultaneously. The tour. The phone is walked around a room so that you may look at furniture. The roll call. Everyone in the house is fetched, […]

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Eleven things in every Nepali household drawer

Not the useful drawer. The other one. A torch, working, with no batteries in it. Batteries, of an incompatible size. Three screwdrivers, all of them flathead. Keys to a padlock that no longer exists. A sewing kit from a hotel in Pokhara. One chopstick. Warranty cards, sorted by nothing, for appliances long since sold. A […]

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Nine things that happen at every Nepali wedding

The card says eleven. Nothing whatsoever happens until two. Somebody you have never met photographs you, and it becomes a family heirloom. There is a queue for the stage. Nobody can establish where it begins. An uncle asks what you do, is delighted by the answer, and asks again twenty minutes later because he would […]

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The seven stages of asking a shopkeeper for change

You hand over a thousand-rupee note for a forty-rupee item. The shopkeeper looks at the note. Then at you. Then back at the note. “Sano chaina?” Nothing smaller? You conduct a full and public search of a wallet whose contents you already know. He opens a drawer whose contents he also already knows. Hope is […]

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Every excuse for being late in Kathmandu, ranked

Ranked by how much anyone believes it. Traffic. Believed completely. Requires no supporting detail and never has. The road was dug up. Believed instantly, and permanently — it usually still is. I got stuck at the bank. Believed, and generates sympathy, which is more than the others manage. My bike had a puncture. Believed roughly […]